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Celebrating and sustaining Indian crafts

JADE’s latest collection is called ‘Shubhra’ and is inspired by heirloom silver. The ensembles carry a soft ethereal silvery sheen that’s equal parts elegant and glamorous, without being too over the top… Monica Shah interacts with Puja Gupta.

Fashion travels beyond cultures or disparities. Designer Monica Shah founded the Chanakya School of Craft to help “empower women from underprivileged backgrounds with the right resources, knowledge, and skills, as well as to help sustain Indian arts and crafts”.

She hopes to pass unique arts and crafts to the future artisans of India, while also helping them sustain it and forge viable livelihoods out of it.

In a conversation with Shah, co-founder of label Jade which recently opened a new store in Los Angeles:

Why did you think of opening a store in LA amid the pandemic?

We have always had an international clientele, mostly from the US. Over the course of the past few years, we realized there was a greater need to bring the JADE experience to these brides, closer to where they are, rather than having it entirely online or them having to fly down to Indian just for their bridal ensembles. It’s one key step towards being a truly global brand. We felt like LA was a great location to start off. And we also found the perfect team in LA to represent our brand.

How do you aim to support Indian craftsmanship?

Celebrating and sustaining Indian crafts and techniques have always been at the heart of all the work we do. We believe that each of us, no matter where in the world we are, are ambassadors of India’s artisanal heritage and custodians of craft.

We make sure our ensembles are crafted using traditional techniques by hand and adapted to the modern perspective, to show that these crafts may be traditional but they’re still very relevant.

Tell us about Chanakya School and the work Jade does.

Two years ago we opened an NGO/a one-of-a-kind school called the Chanakya School of Craft to help empower women from underprivileged backgrounds with the right resources, knowledge, and skills, as well as to help sustain Indian arts and crafts. The school is a very special thing for us. We hope to pass the torch of our country’s unique arts and crafts to the future artisans of India, while also helping them sustain it and forge viable livelihoods out of it.

What’s the theme and thought behind your latest collection?

JADE’s latest collection is called ‘Shubhra’ and is inspired by heirloom silver. The ensembles carry a soft ethereal silvery sheen that’s equal parts elegant and glamorous, without being too over the top. The collection is perfect for the modern bride as it brings together contemporary as well as traditional aesthetics. We’ve used regal yet elegant colours like Blush Pink, Champagne Gold, Pewter, Aegean Blue, and Garnet Red. The inspiration behind the collection is silver and its versatility. We have always been fascinated by silver crafts done by the communities in Kutch and Rajasthan. So much so that it’s become a part of our personal style too. We wanted to celebrate this magical beauty of silver through couture.

Twelve years in the industry, how has your journey been?

It has been an incredible journey. We have learned so much, grown so much, adapted to and thrived through an unprecedented time, and still have a long way to go! We’re very excited to see where this journey leads us!

Any expansion plans?

We have a lot of exciting things in the pipeline. We can’t wait to announce it at the right time!

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Lightness of Being Launched by Tanishq

Online jewellery: Millennials, minimalism and the marketplace. (Photo: Pixabay)

Expert techniques have been used to give the jewellery a feeling of weightlessness, with each piece allowing the wearer to articulate their feelings of joy and dazzle while doing so,” she added…reports Asian Lite News.

India’s notable jewellery brand Tanishq has launched the Lightness of Being collection Inspired by the UAE discerning consumer who embodies joyous living. Tanishq Featuring gorgeous rings, brilliant earrings, statement necklaces and exquisite pendants, combining captivating cuts with immaculately crafted settings, this diamond collection celebrates the joie de vivre of the UAE.

The intricacy and design differentiation synonymous with Tanishq jewellery is on full display in this collection, with modularity and wearability being prioritized. Lightweight detachable pendants, jacket earrings that can be worn as studs and long drops that can be converted into pendants allow women to showcase their individuality and sparkle in style. This collection also makes it comfortable to straddle work and play.

From the fluidity of fringe-inspired pendants that shimmer as the wearer moves to bold and striking ring and earring settings where the stones appear to be floating mid-air or falling like raindrops, motifs that signify life, mark the Lightness of Being collection.

“Adornment and self-expression are priorities once again and this collection allows for both with designs that make you sparkle at your best and that are versatile as well” said Beate Steinfeld, Trend & Design Head – Tanishq International,

“A bold ring says I am ready to take on the world, a playful necklace asks where’s the dancefloor, whilst feather-themed earrings capture the romance of flying. Expert techniques have been used to give the jewellery a feeling of weightlessness, with each piece allowing the wearer to articulate their feelings of joy and dazzle while doing so,” she added.

“The modular, versatile designs consider the practical yet fashion-minded consumer’s needs and easily fit into her busy lifestyle by giving options to the wearer. Each piece can be adorned to suit a new mood or moment. Whether you’re buying something for a wedding, to wear on a summer holiday, at your new workplace, for an intimate gathering of friends and family or even to that glittering gala dinner, whatever the occasion, this new collection has a diamond jewellery piece that will make one stand out now and always,” added Vandana Bhalla, Marketing Head- International Business Division, Titan Company Ltd.

This latest collection is now available in store at Tanishq’s stunning store in Meena Bazaar Dubai. Customers can enjoy up to 25% off* on diamond jewelry value throughout the summer and can also take advantage of Tanishq’s video calling facility that promises the personalized real-time shopping experience of a Tanishq store replicated in one’s own home. 

Every piece of jewelry at Tanishq meets the highest standards of color, clarity, carat, cut and class.After stringent quality checks, only the best diamonds adorn a Tanishq product.

Website : www.tanishq.ae IG: tanishquae Contact Number:  +971 42281458 Store Address : Tanishq Showroom, No. 3, Plot No. 312-177, Al Souq Al Kabeer, Meena Bazaar, Dubai.

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Fashion Lite Blogs

Fashion sense, a sign of mental health

Fashion is an enemy of the environment. I shall not list the statistics, we should all be aware of them and know by now that fashion is the second most polluting industry…writes Sujata Assomull.

I have missed dressing up, just wearing an easy summer dress putting on some mid heels (am not ready for those towering stilettos as yet, and I am not sure if I ever will be again), layering on a few necklaces and pulling out my favourite envelope clutch is such a treat.

Fashion brings joy to many of us, you feel good when you wear something that makes you feel good. As renowned Professor of psychiatry Raphael Bonelli said, “An interest in fashion and personal appearance is a sign of mental health. Psychiatrists are able to infer changes in mood from changes in their patient’s clothing.” It is a scientific fact– fashion is therapeutic!

It is this very feeling that many fashion brands bank on, and it’s the reason ultra-fast fashion has gained such momentum as we come out of lockdowns. Our time at home should have taught us, the never ending trend cycle is putting too much pressure on us and on the earth. It was back in 2015, that Anna Wintour declared that “Trend is an Ugly Word”.

There is no denying that the very nature of fashion is cyclical but the whole process had gone on “speed”. Fashion is an enemy of the environment. I shall not list the statistics, we should all be aware of them and know by now that fashion is the second most polluting industry.

Hopefully, now we understand the need to be more conscious. The never ending cycle was also hard work, keeping up with trends meant your wardrobe always needed an update. It was an exhausting process. But on the flip side is the joy that dressing up brings. So how does one balance them both?

Thirty eight-year-old Delhi based Amrita Thakur is a fashion designer and also fashion influencer says, “I know I will now make smart choices when I shop.” She says during this time she has made develop a penchant for jewellery, and currently has her eyes on a dainty emerald necklace she can wear on a daily basis. “It does seem like you can have a longer partnership with jewellery than a dress.” As a designer, the lockdown made her realise that she needs to have a “seasonless” approach to fashion. “I have missed dressing up but I know I want beautiful things I can wear every day, that do not date. A client does want to buy something, and then find that just a few months later as things are opening up that piece no longer works.”

Sanjana Rishi, 30, a lawyer by training and a well-known conscious clothing advocate, is happy to admit that she loves fashion. “This time has made me aware of what I already own, to cherish the things I have bought already that are in my cupboard. I look forward to wearing them again. They could be pieces from H&M or Zara, but they are pieces I bought and I love, so I cannot wait to wear them again.” Rewearing and Restyling will be her new mantras and one of her top tips is to take dupattas or scarves and turn them into fun tops for the summer.

A strong ‘vocal for local advocate’ any future fashion choices will come from homegrown brands that take a conscious and ethical approach to fashion. “It is important to support our local brands now. Be it a Tarun Tahiliani or a Doodlage.” And says her next buy will be an investment one. “Something that is hand embroidered may be a chikan lehnga, a piece I can wear again and again and that also speaks of this country’s craft heritage. Honestly I cannot wait to dress up again.”

It’s time to ditch the word trend from our fashion vocabulary and perhaps replace it with the word timeless. Not only will this make sure we are more sustainable in our approach to clothing, but it will make our fashion choices more about our personal style than industry diktats.

The writer Sujata Assomull is an IANSlife columnist. Assomull is the author “100 Iconic Bollywood Costumes” and was the Founding Editor In Chief of Harper’s Bazaar, India.

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It’s time for switch to Monsoon wardrobe

The floral prints are a forever favourite of the fashion lovers and these floral dresses are perfect for the monsoon season.

Seasons have fashion trends and some trends are fixed for certain seasons. Monsoon is all about bright, happy colours and comfortable clothes. From ‘work from home’ meetings to cozy coffee dates, dress up according to the season to impress. Ashima Sharma, celebrity fashion designer and founder of Ashima S Couture shares some monsoon trends to follow this season.

1. Bold colours and dark shades are in trend: black and single colour pants can be worn with contrasting shades of tops and shirts.

2. Jeans are a classic but this year trend is of bell bottoms in denims that imitates the classic retro look.

3. Ruffles are again seen trending this monsoon with ruffled skirts and tops.

4. Monochrome shades are trending again this season, monochrome pants can be seen worn by many influencers and have gained popularity largely this monsoon.

5. The floral prints are a forever favourite of the fashion lovers and these floral dresses are perfect for the monsoon season.

6. Culottes are the perfect and trending monsoon look for the office-goers as it gives comfort along with style. This is a choice opted widely by working women with an active lifestyle.

7. Crop tops are an ultimate fashion favourite for the fashionistas this year. Especially in monsoon, crop tops are a raging trend. They can be teamed up with shorts, jeans and skirts to give a trendy look.

8. Short skirts were out of trend since long but this year they are back in trend, this year many celebrities have been seen donning this look in their events and hence they are popular again. It is also a comfortable option for monsoons.

9. Free fitting clothes are in trend this monsoon. Due to the comfort factor and the fact they can easily be worn on a daily basis, the casual look is an ultimate favourite of the youth and free fitted clothes give the perfect casual look this monsoon.

10. Shrugs are a fashion favourite for the monsoons as they offer a perfect blend of casual and trendy look. They can be paired up with almost anything; like jeans, shorts, skirts etc. They provide the perfect trendy look for the monsoon season.

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Food Lifestyle

‘C’ the advantage!

Why Plum Mandarin & Vitamin C serum should be your holy A greater absorption of skin is possible with the use of vitamin C in serum-based formulations…writes N. Lothungbeni Humtsoe.

Our foods can make wonders on our health and of course on skin too. Whether you are a skincare fanatic or have just started your journey towards creating your own beauty regime, you would have come across a multiplicity of ingredients on skincare product labels that often leave you wondering what’s a good fit for you. The most versatile yet tricky amongst those is Vitamin C.

Most people get a fair dose of this vitamin from the food, fruits, and vegetables they eat. It is a legendary supplement required to keep our immune system robust and fortify our bodies against diseases. It has also played a crucial part in our fight against Covid-19.

With countless benefits internally, the vitamin has equal, if not more, dermatological advantages. Arushi Thapar, Senior Marketing Manager, Plum, PurePlay Skin Sciences Pvt Ltd. shares more on the new ‘in’ natural additive.

C the advantage! : Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that can neutralize free radicals, but what does that mean for your skin? Vitamin C is known to be a difficult ingredient to develop and work with owing to its fragility and photosensitivity. With advancements in research, we know that the potent L- Ascorbic acid or also known as the most stable form of Vitamin C which can effectively reduce dark spots, protect from sun damage & treat dull skin. With age and due to sun exposure, collagen synthesis in the skin decreases, leading to wrinkles- once again Vitamin C is the only antioxidant proven to stimulate the synthesis of collagen, minimize fine lines, scars, and wrinkles. Therefore, its important to understand the make of such a potent concoction with multifold benefits. Many skincare products on the market today, deep dive into the skincare science and highlight the vitamin C derivatives, which is an important part for consumers to understand and choose the right Vitamin C serum. Products with the right concentration, formulation and other mix of ingredients like Japanese Mandarin and Kakadu plum that boost the performance of the Vitamin C, are important factors to take into consideration before purchasing a Vitamin C serum.

Why Plum Mandarin & Vitamin C serum should be your holy A greater absorption of skin is possible with the use of vitamin C in serum-based formulations. The concentration grail: Make sure your Vitamin C serum checks these boxes before purchasing or using them. should be between 10-20% with the sweet spot at 15%- any higher nullifies the benefits and could damage your skin. Another important aspect to pay attention to is the pH value. Human skin tends to have a pH value between 4-5 hence, the serum should have a similar value to be effective. Other factors to consider while adding Vitamin C to your beauty shelf include packaging, colour, and smell. As mentioned before, Vitamin C is photosensitive; i.e its properties change with exposure to light. It is, therefore, important for the serum to be packaged in a dark or amber coloured bottle. Store away from sunlight and in a dry environment. Be mindful of the colour and smell- ideally any skincare product should be free of artificial colours & fragrances. A change into a yellow, orange, or brown colour means it has oxidised; a sour or rancid smell means the product has lost stability and its use must be discontinued.

Skin care (IANS)

Once you have the ideal Vitamin C infused serum you can mix it up with your existing AM/PM regime- As a base alongside sunscreen is basic but an absolute must-have for glowing skin. It can also be used with Hyaluronic acid for hydration; combined with peptides making it a specialist for mature skin, or mixed with Vitamin E for ultimate nourishment for your skin! Ingredients such as niacinamide, chemical exfoliants, and retinol should not be applied together. Vitamin C with Niacinamide could be potent, with exfoliants causing destabilization, and combined with retinol becomes too much for the skin to handle at one time.

Now that you know all there is to know about Vitamin C, add one to your cart that suits your skin the best. Go ahead, #CtheGlow for yourself!

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Fashion Lite Blogs

Keep your jewels always precious

These items are prone to developing scratches due to their fragile properties. To avoid any such occurrence, one must store different gems in separate boxes…writes Puja Gupta.

Jewels are considered as one of the greatest assets .Did you know that the heightened humidity during the monsoon season has detrimental effects on your precious jewels? Be it gold ornaments, delicate silver, precious pearls or sparkling diamonds, all need to be handled with care during the rainy season. Moisture hampers the quality of numerous metal alloys and tarnishes their original lustre.

Here are some tips shared by experts at Reliance Jewels on how to protect your various jewellery pieces:

Diamond

Since diamonds are least prone to any damage, individuals tend to wear them frequently. However, daily usage exposes them to moisture and dirt, eventually reducing their shine. It hampers the overall look and feel of diamond jewellery, which typically costs one a fortune. To protect your prized items, you should gently clean your pieces using a mixture of soap and water or wipe them with a soft damped cloth.

Silver

Silver is very prone to oxidization and tarnishing. Oxidization often turns silver jewellery black in colour, simultaneously robbing them of their charm. Due to the increased humidity in the atmosphere during the monsoon season, these items face a greater risk of corrosion. You can use toothpaste to clean your oxidized silver jewellery. You can even use a soft cotton cloth. Individuals can also apply ‘silver dip’ to safeguard the shine of their silver items. However, irrespective of the protection technique, the cardinal rule remains to avoid any contact with water.

Gemstones

These include pearls, coral, amber and many more. Gemstones are characterised by their organic and delicate nature. During the monsoons, if you plan on wearing jewellery items made of gemstones, then make sure they are not directly exposed to perfumes or sprays of any kind. Such contacts might lead to irrevocable damage. Hence, adequate care and precaution need to be taken while using gemstones. Further, these items are prone to developing scratches due to their fragile properties. To avoid any such occurrence, one must store different gems in separate boxes.

Gold and platinum

In moist conditions, gold jewellery is bound to get dirty and dusty. The same happens in the case of platinum as well. Being neutral metals, they do not demand additional attention. However, completely neglecting their condition during the rains can cost you the quality of your precious jewels. To protect their lustre, make sure gold and platinum pieces are thoroughly cleaned, using a mixture of mild soap and water.

A general factor to consider for your entire collection is its proper storage. Individuals should opt for boxes that have hard exteriors and soft interiors. One must compartmentalise their jewellery based on their type. Silica gel pouches should be placed inside the boxes, to absorb any excess moisture.

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Experimental textiles curate ‘fashion beyond’

Ekaya collaborates with young designer, Aarohi Shah, from the Fashion Institute of Technology New York, to create a range of experimental textiles. Reports… Asian Lite News.

Fashion is just like we read a book multiple times, as we get new and different kinds of meanings. Fashion always work with experiments and makes a great number of new styles and trends.

The Arohi X Ekaya SS’21 collection is a modern and versatile selection of handwoven saris, chic suits, bias-cut skirts, and pop-coloured organza co-ord sets inspired by contemporary art, bold colour play, and clean construction.

Ekaya collaborates with young designer, Aarohi Shah, from the Fashion Institute of Technology New York, to create a range of experimental textiles and silhouettes keeping in mind the ever-growing demand for easy to wear, modern saris, and ready to wear, combining craftsmanship and attention to detail.

The textiles of this collection comprises experimental and youthful saris exuding an artful sense of texture and pattern along with timeless cord sets with fluid silhouettes and vivid colours. It features 25-30 pieces, including colourways, priced between Rs 15,000 to Rs 40,000 and is available at Ekaya stores.

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Unique Indian Textile In The Pandemic Era

The textile sector is one of the biggest contributors to the national economy and a large employment generator… Avinash Mane interacts with Puja Gupta.

Pandemic tried to put a full stop for most of our industries, but the continuous effort and support of technology really helped such to come back. Clothes are one of the basic needs of human existence, which is why even during lockdown, the apparel industry witnessed a steady demand. Demand from Western markets helped the Indian Textile sector stay afloat, says Avinash Mane, Commercial Director, South Asia, Lenzing Group.

Mane shares his views on the challenges the Indian textile industry faced due to the pandemic and what role technology has to play in the future of the apparel industry.

Avinash Mane, Commercial Director, South Asia, Lenzing Group.

How has the Indian textile industry responded to the challenges experienced by Covid-19 over the past year?

The textile sector is one of the biggest contributors to the national economy and a large employment generator. India’s textile sector is unique with it being one of the finest in the world producing around 15 per cent of total industrial production and contributing around 30 per cent to total exports.

The sector did face its share of challenges over the last year. While the domestic retail went on pause last summer, the export orders from European and American region also dried. But despite the issues, the industry has kept afloat. Specially post the first wave when orders from western countries started flowing in. The recovery, which was export driven, was visible from early this year. Clothes are one of the basic needs of human existence, which is why even during lockdown, the online apparel industry witnessed a steady demand.

According to a recent report by the Indian Ratings and Research agency (Ind-Ra), the non-availability of inputs such as fabric, yarns etc due to lockdown related restrictions may cause a short-term impact on the finished output in the sector, however it is unlikely to impact the Indian textile sector.

As mentioned, demand from western markets helped the Indian Textile sector stay afloat. Ind-Ra stated that due to strong export markets, the first quarter of the current financial year may not be a ‘lost quarter’ for the textile sector. Covid-19 and lockdown has also been a deep learning experience for the textile industry who responded with agility by working out adequate inventory and we believe will help the sector bounce back sooner than expected.

Recently, Lenzing announced its business results for first quarter. The group has seen good growth for its TENCEL lyocell and modal fibers as well as LENZING ECOVERO viscose fibers. The Indian region has been a key contributor to this.

The sector has also received promising support from the government through innovative schemes such as planned mega textile parks, giving it the necessary impetus to become competitive, attract large investments through the creation of world-class infrastructure.

Do you feel that the Indian textile industry has fared better than other regions in terms of business? If yes, why?

The Covid-19 pandemic also put a spotlight on the untapped textile potential of South Asian region. It has given an opportunity to countries like India, Bangladesh, Indonesia to become a potential global centre for textile and clothing exports. Availability of abundant and cheap labour, water and other raw materials for textile manufacturing processes, large production of cotton, nearness to growing markets have further helped this.

Covid-19 has given rise to a new type of consumer thus pushing products and services to recreate themselves. Do you believe this is true for textile ad apparels as well? Please elaborate.

The Covid-19 crisis gave rise to a more conscious consumer. There has been a significant change in consumer attitudes and shopping behaviour and most of these are expected to remain post-pandemic. The lockdown forced consumers to analyse their shopping habits, including cost consciousness, preference for local products, evaluating the impact of their purchases, which ultimately leads to making sustainable choices.

Consumer preferences sharply realigned away from lifestyle to health, hygiene and personal care. Value of hygiene increased significantly thus paving the way for products that promote hygiene thus assuring consumers with greater safety from the virus.

What is interesting to note that fibre features such as microbial resistance became a key focus for the textile manufacturers and brands. These were earlier considered as add-on features, the use of which was restricted to special segments like sportswear.

Apparel brands grew their portfolios to add masks as they became a staple product. Demand from the medical industry increased demand for non-woven textile significantly. These are key ingredients in creating masks, wipes and PPE kits. We foresee this demand to sustain in the near future and contribute to the sector.

Do you believe that technology will have a greater role within the textile industry in a post Covid-19 era?

We believe technology will play a key role in reviving, rejuvenating, and reinvigorating the Indian textile industry. Undoubtedly, technology’s support is vital to any sector but when it comes to textile, it becomes even more important.

Consumers are keen to know about the origin and journey of their products. This is driving up the demand for traceability by brands and consumers alike which is further driving the increasing use of AI and IoT within the sector. To address this demand Lenzing collaborated with TextileGenesis and introduced a brand-new blockchain-enabled supply chain traceability platform in 2020.

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Smart ideas for rocking crop tops

A plain crop top with a long skirt and a stole. This is how you can go out in the indo-ethnic appeal which is sure to be like no one else…writes Puja Gupta.

Some kinds of fashion continue for long periods. Crop tops are the trendsetters for the season because of their snug and voguish styles ruling the fashion market today. Women can try out this apparel in all styles for redefined comfort and style. Shivam Soni, CEO & Founder of Beyoung Folks Private Limited, suggests some ideas for rocking crop tops:

A Classy Makeover:

However cool and chic a woman may be, sometimes it is all about class. With a minimalist approach yet an overload of fashion, a crop top can be a classic attire to pick. Simply wear a bold colored crop top say red, yellow, or black with a palazzo and a stole if you like to carry.

For That Badass Look:

The first thought coming into mind while wearing a crop top is the party at night. So, you go girl! Wear a crop top with a tight skirt or shorts, let your hair loose with smokey eye makeup. This is how you end up fashionably slaying the party. Also, if you feel like it, then you can also put on a leather jacket.

For A Funky Comfy Addition:

A crop top is not just about fashion, but it is also about the level of comfort for a woman as she can feel airy and breezy, which is hard to come by in tight tank tops. Considering this, you can wear a crop top with a pleated skirt for a style statement. Walk on the floor like Rachel Green with a bun and fashion fun for getting compliments.

With Formals:

Your crop top can also be your accomplice for formals, if only you know how to wear it right. For instance, wear a pencil skirt with a plain crop top and button a blazer on it. it can be a quick and easy solution for getting the formal look effortlessly.

With Traditional:

A plain crop top with a long skirt and a stole. This is how you can go out in the indo-ethnic appeal which is sure to be like no one else. And a jhumka is a must to get your perfect party looks without any extravagant doings. Just pure fashion and pure tradition.

When Out Of Stock:

When you are unsure about to wear, whether it is for a party or just an evening walk, then comfort is what you must choose. The perfect synonym of comfort is crop tops for being both fine and cozy. There are certainly options of printed as well as plain crop tops.

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Professional Vs Fashionable

But this never stopped Justice KK Usha, the first Malayali female judge of the Kerala High Court and subsequently it’s Chief Justice from becoming a champion of women’s rights throughout her career…writes Sujata Assomull.

Law practicing is a classy profession for all, especially for women. Vidhi by Save The Loom, is a collection of saris made for female lawyers, whose strict dress code reflects how professional India still needs to become more female-friendly.

Claire Huxtable (‘The Cosby Show’), Helen Gamble (‘The Practice’) and ‘Ally McBeal’, were just some of television’s fictional legal women who were my style icons growing up. It was about more than their sharp sense of style; it was the fact they were fearless and stood out in a man’s world.

While their wardrobes were full of colour, in India, all lawyers are restricted to wearing black, white and grey. It’s a monochrome uniform that has pretty much been around since the days of the British Raj. The coat that lawyers need to wear over their own clothes, can mean wearing a sari feels cumbersome, especially in the Indian climate conditions. The history of the ‘Black Coat’ dates back to 1327 when King Edward III stipulated costumes for judges based on the “Dress Code” for attending the “Royal Court”.

But this never stopped Justice KK Usha, the first Malayali female judge of the Kerala High Court and subsequently its Chief Justice from becoming a champion of women’s rights throughout her career. She passed away at the age of 81 in October 2020. She wore her woven saris with her signature red bindi. “Vidhi by Save the Loom” is a range of saris made in handloom cotton for lawyers– Justice Usha inspired and initiated the idea.

These soft saris, fall perfectly without starching; they have a feel of fashion but look very professional. They are woven to ensure that female lawyers look cool as they battle it out in the courtroom. It took much time and research for these pieces to be designed and launched on May 4, 2021, which is the 116th birth anniversary of Justice Anna Chandy, the first female advocate in India.

“Save The Loom” is a social impact agency that has been working with weavers of Kerala ever since the floods of 2018 and was the brainchild of journalist and former consultant to the Fashion Design Council of India, Ramesh Menon. This collection may be designed for lawyers, but women with an appreciation for handlooms may want to add one of these saris to their collection. Menon tells more about this range of handloom saris:


I believe Justice KK Usha was the inspiration-she seems to have a trademark style with her large red bindi and silk saris

She had a motherly charm and energy, a vibrant and gracious personality, someone who spoke for women rights and for the underprivileged. Justice Usha during her long career and travels found a great love for crafts and handlooms and handed over many of those narratives to us during the many meetings. We unfortunately lost her last year in October, and Vidhi — our line of sarees and textiles was born as a tribute to her legacy and community work done by her in over six decades.

How has the response been from lawyers?

We spent a good six months last year talking to women lawyers across the country and analysed their feedback to develop a line. Once the first lot of designs were woven, we went to lawyers of all age groups — the seniors who revere the saree, and the young who have never woven, took their feedback, and incorporated that as well. The dress code is sacrosanct, even though there is a large debate on its relevance in its current form which has been a hand over from the British era.

Do you expect female lawyers from all regions of India to buy Vidhi?

We have ventured into a space that can provide regular work to weavers, not just within Kerala but elsewhere too. We are a small unit and are not geared to cater to a larger demand. We are hopeful that Vidhi can set out as a trend and the artisan community elsewhere can take off from there.

Would this sari work well for women in other professions too?

The premiere cotton sarees and fabric in yardage are not restricted to a profession, but rather it’s a ‘court appropriate attire’ if I may bracket it so. Anyone who loves to wear sarees or wishes to acquire the yardage will find it a luxury product. A continuity line with the same aesthetics but in ‘colour’ variants are in the pipeline as we have been receiving demands on that front as well.

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