Deep in South-East London suburbia lies a multifaceted gem of family-run restaurant that has not only stood the test of time but is constantly evolving its menus and cooking styles to represent the very best in contemporary cooking from India and the subcontinent. A feature by FnB columnist Riccha Grrover for Asian Lite International newspaper.
The award-winning Babur restaurant in Forest Hill in London that has been getting incredible reviews for its authentic cuisine that has been taken a notch-up with contemporary touches is a really amazing hidden gem in SE London indeed.
Babur has been quietly and consistently elevating Indian cuisine in the area since 1985, and – recently crowned London’s Best Asian Restaurant at the Asian Restaurant Awards 2022 – is still being recognised as one of the best around.
Original cuisine, innovative cocktails, a price-conscious wine list and attentive service from a core team who have spent the last 15 years (at least) working side-by-side, makes Babur a culinary jewel that is worth the journey.
Having moved from Sylhet in the north-eastern corner of Bangladesh to Wembley with his family when he was a teenager, Emdad Rahman opened Babur when he was just 22 years old.
At the restaurant you can begin your own culinary expedition with tender Goat shoulder tikka cumin puff with black cardamom, green tomato and smoked aubergine mash; Dungar quail breast with mango mustard sauce; Crab bonda (tempered blue crab meat dumplings) with mint coriander puree; or Buffalo chapli slider, cumin bun, tamarind barbecue and smoked garlic yoghurt.
Mains continue the spice trail with inventive vegetarian options like Jackfruit and young peas dosa, through to a ‘roaring hot’ Venison hunter curry slow-cooked with sweet potato, dark spices and tamarind; and Baby monkfish tail caldeen served with samba rice and a spicy, sharp and creamy Goan coconut sauce.
Desserts are far from your average Indian restaurant fare. Think Cumin chocolate fondant with salted caramel gelato; comforting Spiced apricot and fig crumble with golden saffron custard; Stem ginger and honey kulfi with mixed berry compote and ginger shortbread; or avoid food envy with a Signature Platter of delectable mini servings ideal to share between 3 or 4 people. If there’s no space for a third course, dessert cocktails will deliver that sweet hit via the Mocha Martini, Wild Strawberry Daquiri or Lychee Li Sling.
Listening to its customers has become key to Babur’s success, so much so that guests are involved in menu development. Proposed new dishes from the kitchen are road-tested by members of The Tasting Group (open to all customers) who have their say in what dishes will feature on upcoming menus. Simply sign up and every few months a group of tasters will be invited to come for an afternoon’s session of delicious dish tasting all in exchange for honest feedback.
Innovation at Babur doesn’t stop at the kitchen pass, it continues by the glass with Indian flavour profiles being explored throughout the extensive cocktail list created by mixologist Rupam Talukdar.
The first in Babur’s two-dozen-plus list of original cocktails is the signature Currytini, combining Bombay Sapphire gin with fresh curry leaf, a kick of green chilli, dry vermouth and lime. Another random sample – the Smoke and Agave Sour mixing Mezcal and Benedictine with almond syrup, charcoal bitters, fresh lime and smooth egg white.
There’s a whole section for those who find happiness in fizz, featuring Saffron Bubbles (saffron cordial, Tanquery Rangpur Gin, lemon oil and Prosecco). Or receive a peppery twist on a classic from the Mumbai Negroni, created using homemade Indian spiced sweet vermouth, Audemus Pink Pepper Gin, Campari and pink clove bitters.
The spectrum of spice continues through the refreshing variety of non-alcoholic options including Craft Lassis in flavours of Smoky coconut; Bourbon vanilla & black cardamom; or Roasted cumin and Himalayan pink salt, alongside homemade lemonades and mocktails.
When it comes to selecting their wines, the team follow three main criteria: they must be delicious; they must work with the food; and they must be good value. Over the years of making matches, the team have discovered that with Indian food the spices are at least as important as the main ingredient.
Although born in the eighties, there’s not a shred of retro throwback in sight in this sophisticated 74-seat spot. Following a full redesign by architects glas in 2005, enter into a bright but warm and open interior characterised by exposed brick and duct work, stone floors, sandstone walls and subtle lighting. A significant kalamkari (textile art) by Ajit Kumar Das dominates the reception area – a piece that became the inspiration for rebuilding Babur in its current guise.
Over its 37 years, artwork has become central to the look and feel of the restaurant and the comfortable, stylishly minimal terracotta coloured leather banquettes and chairs in the dining room are surrounded by a beautifully eclectic collection featuring pieces from both local and Indian artists.
The Baburnama Scroll painting by Durga Devi Talukdar, shows scenes from the eventful life of Babur’s namesake – the first Moghul Emperor of India. Then we once again journey from the traditional to the modern with a huge graphic-design-style piece that was commissioned to commemorate the business’s 30th anniversary – a 45-meter-long outdoor mural adjacent to the restaurant by Matt McGuiness, a food lover, artist and co-founder of Gourmandizing London who chose to illustrate little-known facts about Indian spices.
Meet the Head Chef: Chef Jiwan Lal Babur
A well-trained, highly experienced and multi-skilled Indian Head/Executive Chef, is describes himself as passionate and very committed to his profession. Progressive and innovative, Chef Jiwan is adept at traditional Indian cooking techniques, which he likes to infuse with his own signature touches, turning sub-continental cuisine into something uniquely modern and eye-catching.
With extensive culinary knowledge and a good understanding of what drives sophisticated contemporary dining, Chef Jiwan specialises in Indian Cuisine (both modern and traditional, encompassing tandoori and curry dishes) and creates exquisite meal experiences to remember.
The service at this restaurant is impressive, the staff who serve in style are attentive and knowledgeable about the menu, suggestions are at hand as requested. The music and vibe of the restaurant creates a relaxing atmosphere and indulgent vibe. The food portions are generous and presentation is top-notch. The taste, the flavours are all on point and overall the meal experience is extraordinary and surely one of a kind. Highly Recommended.