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Indian food reaches new heights of fine dining at Benares London

Columnist and Restaurant Reviewer Riccha Grrover in an exclusive review of the iconic Mayfair london restaurant Benares and in conversation with their Executive Chef extraordinaire specialising in nouvelle Indian cuisine-Sameer Taneja, for Asian Lite International. 

Sameer Taneja

Chef Sameer spent many years working mainly with French chefs such as Pascal Proyart (2003-2009), Michel and Alain Roux (2009-2010), Joel Antunes (2010- 2011) and Pierre Koffmann (2011-2012).

The much lauded chef Sameer is originally from Delhi, India. He received his degree in culinary arts from Mangalore, on India’s South-West coast. Prior to moving to the UK in 2003 he worked at The Oberoi Rajvilas in the pink city of Jaipur in Rajasthan which is consistently ranked amongst the top hotels in the world by Tripadvisor and Conde Nast.

RG- Tell us about your journey as a professional chef, across kitchens and cuisines? Did you always plan to be a chef or did you dabble into the profession as an extension of a hobby? 

ST- Honestly speaking, I have had a challenging but satisfying career journey so far in the culinary world. I have had my fair share of ups & downs, few successes and some failures in my journey as a chef,  but surely with plenty of learning! 

Interestingly I never really planned on being a professional chef and nor that cooking was a hobby…my interest in food concepts, experimenting, innovating, cooking professionally came by chance and I each day I Thank God for it as this is surely my passion! 

This is the second best thing that happened to me in my life – first are my children! 

RG- What is like working for a big brand name restaurant kitchen of Benares?  How is benares different from all the other high end indian restaurants in central London in terms of what unique food experience you offer? 

ST- Benares is an institution in itself. It is a top indian fine dining brand. For me it is a dream come true to be able to cook here. Benares has its own style of food offerings. Our ethos of serving Indian food to discerning diners lies in simplicity yet innovation.

RG- What are the top five dishes you would recommend a first time diner to try ?

ST- I am biased! I like each dish that features on the menu but Oyster & Seabream Chaat, Baked Scallops, Venison, Spatchcock (Butter Chicken Roast) and Mashed Aubergine are very close to my heart and I cannot recommend these enough! 

RG- Do you have a seasonal menu too or is it always a fixed ala carte menu? Where does your menu take its inspiration from? 

ST- We have a seasonal pre fix 3 courses menu which changes often, a Tasting Menu (7 courses) which changes seasonally and A La Carte menu which is also refreshed seasonally. My menu is always inspired by the good ole home-cooked food from various indian households across the subcontinent and also regional eats offered by street hawkers. I then give it my own spin to showcase it in a globally acclaimed kitchen for the perusal of evolved and seasoned palates of diners in london city who love to dip into those flavours! 

RG- Tell us about the decor, interiors, drinks selection, music and the overall vibe you have created- how does it compliment the meal experience at Benares? 

ST- Benares restaurant exudes the beauty and the vibrancy of the holy ‘City of Lights’ in India while creating a strong impression with its striking contemporary design. Guests enter an elegant lounge with hand-crafted India inspired furniture and is complimented by a beautiful pond decorated with fresh flowers, creating a luxurious aesthetic. We have a unique cocktail menu with some Benares signature cocktails along with our Wine selection where styles meet spices! All the elements compliment the meal experience at Benares. It’s all about the balance. Drinks are led by my very talented colleague Jeepson Lopes.

RG- Tell us about some of your highs and lows in the  journey as a chef. What keeps you motivated and what’s been your mantra of success? What advice would you give budding chefs? 

ST- Highs and lows have been in plenty and have helped me to grow. They are too many to mention! But most importantly for me I try to find positivity in everything; I am in my element when surrounded by smiles. My family and my team support keeps me going. I am far from success, miles to go so I’m still working on my mantra as I discover it! 

My only advice to young chefs would be- head down, focus, push and repeat! 

RG- What is your personal favourite from the benares menu? What’s your favourite cuisine and restaurant when you go out to eat ? If you weren’t a chef what would you have been doing? 

ST- My absolutely favourite is Oyster & Seabream Chaat. This dish is inspired from street hawkers of India, every mouthful tingles your tastebuds with salty, sweet, sour, spicy, umami, bitterness.

I love, love, love it!

I have a soft corner for any home cooked food and It has always been my weakness. I like fish & spice  – can I call this my favourite cuisine?! 

Baked Malabar Scallop

There are many restaurants I like, but to name few Hoppers, Sabor and Corner Stone.

And oh …I would probably be a Stand-up comedian if I was not a chef! 

RG- How has the pandemic affected the meal experience at Benares? How have you kept the restaurant going and what changes do you need to incorporate in your restaurant  in a post covid era? 

ST- The pandemic have not only effected Benares but the whole FnB industry in general.

Here at Benares we are complying with all the Government regulations for a safer yet the original, gratifying and classy meal experience.

Indian Fine Dining Restaurant with British Flair in the Heart of Mayfair is a food destination, a culinary extravaganza, a lavish food experience to cherish. A food experience here can make any mealtime special and a special occasion even more special! The service is impeccable, the class-act unmatched, the food is worth writing home about, and the passion of the chef along with his team clearly shines through! 

Benares Restaurant and Bar since its opening in 2003 has been considered one of the finest Indian Restaurants in the city.

A meal at this Mayfair jaunt is a memorable one, the delectable food memories linger on! 

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Food Health

Almond Technique To Prevent Heart Diseases

Being Nut-wise: Busting the myths about almonds.

According to the World Health Organization, cardiovascular diseases (CVD) is the number one cause of deaths across the globe, and in India. CVD is also a costly disease to treat and can cause a huge economic burden on the patient, and his/her family…reports Asian Lite News.

For India in particular, CVD has become a severe cause of concern, owing to the disease’s accelerated buildup, early age of onset in the population and the high case fatality rate. Some factors that have contributed to the rise of CVD cases across India include the south Asian genetic makeup and it’s a proneness to the disease, the ever-changing lifestyle, lack of exercise, dietary imbalance and a high intake of saturated and/or trans fats amongst the population.

In the past, multiple studies have also shown that regular consumption of almonds may help reduce low-density lipoprotein (LDL “bad”) cholesterol levels, a recognized risk factor for CVD – especially amongst Indians.

Are men at a greater risk of heart disease than women?. (Photo: Pixabay)

Recent research by Tufts University shows that eating 42.5 grams of almonds each day compared to not eating almonds may help reduce healthcare costs associated with cardiovascular disease among US consumers.

The objective of this study, funded by the Almond Board of California, was to estimate the cost-effectiveness of almond consumption in preventing coronary heart disease through changes in LDL cholesterol levels in the U.S. population, using both short-term base case analysis and 10-year risk prevention. The researchers developed a model to assess the relationship between eating 42.5g of almonds per day versus no almond intake. CVD parameters included the probabilities of increasing LDL levels, developing acute myocardial infarction (MI, or heart attack), MI-related surgeries, and death due to the disease and surgeries and the cost of disease and procedures in the US population in 2012. The cost of almonds used in this research was also factored into the model and was based on price in the US market in 2012, as well.

The base-case model used in this research, which was a study of 150 US adults with increased risk of type 2 diabetes, showed that eating 42.5g of almonds per day would result in an annual cost savings of $363 compared to eating no almonds. The almond eaters had reductions in CVD risk factors including LDL cholesterol, total cholesterol, body weight and Apoliprotein B (also known as Apo-B, the main protein found in harmful LDL cholesterol). These improved parameters decreased the average healthcare costs for treating CVD.

Obesity.

Speaking about the study, Regional Head-Dietetics, Max Healthcare – Delhi, Ritika Samaddar noted: “The study establishes a very positive correlation between almond consumption, heart health, and a derived cost benefit, each of which are relevant for a country like India where CVD cases are rising every day. While the health benefits of almonds have been analyzed by several other studies in the past, this new research also highlights a long term cost advantage of almond consumption which is very unique. So make sure to include almonds in your family and your diet, to lead a healthier and more cost efficient lifestyle.”

When the time horizon was expanded to 10 years, findings were similar in pattern: it cost non-almond eaters $2566 in CVD prevention compared to a cost of just $1806 for almond eaters, or a savings of $760.

Sheela Krishnaswamy, Nutrition and Wellness Consultant said: “The results of this new study are interesting to note. Owing to the genetic makeup, sedentary lifestyle, poor dietary regime and high salt intake, Indians are at higher risk of heart disease. If one develops the disease, it adds to the household’s medical expenses. Therefore, I suggest that people with a genetic history of CVD or those with established risk factors (high BP, diabetes, obesity etc.) for heart disease alter their diets to include a daily dose of almonds, among other things. In the long run, improving your lifestyle will have a positive impact not just on your heart health, but may also reduce overall medical expenses.”

A ‘healthy’ shift in India’s snacking habit.

Based on these analyses, researchers concluded that consuming 42.5g of almonds per day is a cost-effective strategy for preventing CVD in short term and potentially, up to 10 years.

Acknowledging the findings in the study, Madhuri Ruia, Pilates Expert and Diet & Nutrition Consultant commented: “It is interesting to note the long term viability of this study, especially in context of a country like India where CVD is one of the leading causes of mortality. Opting for healthier snacking options like almonds, is a small yet impactful investment that is sure to pay off in the long run, especially for people with high risk to CVD. So the next time you head to the supermarket, stock up on roasted, salted or raw almonds instead of unwholesome or fried snacks, to begin your journey towards a healthier lifestyle.”

Categories
Interview Lite Blogs Restaurant Reviews

Fusion Of Flavours

Columnist and Restaurant Reviewer Riccha Grrover in an exclusive review of  NoriTacos from brand Sugoi JPN and in conversation with the entrepreneur of award-winning food concept Felipe Preece for Asian Lite International. 

Felipe Preece

Initially based out of a small dark kitchen under a railway arch in Bethnal Green, and catering to a local pub via a food truck, Sugoi JPN (known for its unique NoriTacos) is now working on a new franchise expansion initiative and plans to launch 10 sites in 12 months during a global pandemic, with two sites already open in South Wimbledon and Palmers Green.

Sugoi JPN is inspired by Tokyo’s ‘Piss Alley’ street food market and Latin America’s street food stalls. A hybrid between Japanese nori and Mexican tacos, the brand prides itself on championing NoriTacos, a crispy seaweed tempura shell shaped like a taco and packed with sushi rice and Japanese-Latin toppings. The secret recipe took a year to develop with particular attention to its structure in order to create the ideal street-food dish that is easy to eat on the go.

For more than fifteen years Felipe and his wife Veronica had been developing Japanese restaurant concepts together providing management, strategic planning, marketing and design and have a proven record of successful concept development. 

They have both advised and eaten in different Nihon restaurants around the world including Chicago, Miami, California, Madrid, Barcelona, San Sebastian, Paris, Caracas, Santiago, San Juan, and of course, London. They were the creators and founders of SushiOlé (Madrid 2004-2008), Sushi House (Mallorca 2008-2010), Japo Express (Mallorca 2010-2011), Oh! Sushi (Miami 2011-2012).

In 2012 they came to London and following their working stunts with Aqua, Hakkasan and SSP they self-funded Sugoi JPN and within two years became an award-winning brand.

RG- When did you set up Sugoi JPN and what inspired you towards it?

FP- When we arrived in London five years ago, we realised that the Japanese food market was saturated so we were keen to create something different, unique, simple, but cool (which is what Sugoi means). The hospitality industry is aware that delivered food is an increasingly important feature of urban living, uptake is highest in the capital. Technology has been the catalyst, driving uptake via mobile platforms and digital marketing with full-service delivery platforms opening new channels. As a result, we decided to bet on the dark delivery kitchens to try our crazy cool idea, and we found one in Bethnal Green, which we shared. The kitchen was located down an alley under a railway arch which was coincidental, considering our concept was inspired by Piss Alley (Tokyo).

RG-Tell us about the concept of NoriTacos and what cuisine is it? 

FP- We are combining the best of Latin and Japanese, traditions, culture and flavours to get a new intense street food and delivery concept: noritacos.  These are 100% fresh & fun, in other words:  Eating Japanese – Living Latino.

Nori is the Japanese name for edible seaweed which is primarily used as an ingredient to wrap sushi. Taco is the traditional Mexican dish consisting of a corn or wheat tortilla folded or rolled around a filling.

If we combine the two words, Nori + Taco, we get, Noritaco: A crispy seaweed tempura shell with Japanese-Latin fusion fillings.

RG- Tell us about your journey as an entrepreneur who’s aiming for expansion as the FnB industry is still reeling under the post lockdown impact? 

FP- For more than fifteen years my wife Veronica and I had been developing Japanese restaurants concepts together, providing management, strategic planning, marketing and design. We have the knowledge and expertise to create and define restaurants, the brand positioning and expansion, from the initial idea through to the construction, start-up and beyond. 

We are professionals who know the Japanese fine dining and casual restaurant industry, with a proven track record of successful concept development.  We have also advised and eaten in different Nihon restaurants at cities around the world including Chicago, Miami, California, Madrid, Barcelona, San Sebastian, Paris, Caracas, Santiago, San Juan, and of course, London.

We are also the creators and founders of SushiOlé (Madrid 2004-2008), Sushi House (Mallorca 2008-2010), Japo Express (Mallorca 2010-2011), Oh! Sushi (Miami 2011-2012) and Arepita Sliders (2019 – Currently).

The hospitality industry has hugely been impacted by Covid-19 and it’s all about supporting each other during this crisis and getting through it together.

Most restaurants that closed were pivoting their business to delivery and takeaway, however to continue to generate profit, this is almost impossible. Whilst we were closed, we thought about this issue and how we could get around it and we decided on an exciting partnership.

As so many people know already, owning your own business is not always a piece of cake. It’s very rewarding, but it involves more of your time, energy and dedication. So we wanted to give entrepreneurs an opportunity to run their own delivery kitchen, and professionals who would like to maximise their restaurants or delivery/takeaway business, by adding a successful and multi award-winning concept to it.

We do the training, we give them the right to use our brand, we teach them our know how, etc. Their venue does not need to have our branding, it will work just with online presence. It will help others to make it happen through maximizing their structure (rent, staff, etc) and it will help us to expand our brand at the same time in a professional way. The whole idea is to be able to run a multi-concept kitchen where entrepreneurs can manage their concept and ours simultaneously in the same venue.

We are quite proud of what we have accomplished over the past two years. As you read through this interview, you’ll see why we say, “This is not just a company, it’s a concept!” and we would love to work with more partners to expand this cool concept.

We don’t want to be thought of as someone who only sells ‘franchises’. That isn’t our intention. We’ve designed this business as if we are going to grow together.

RG- Tell us about your current locations, range of menu options? Do you cater to vegan and vegetarians? Where are your current franchises/outlets? 

FP- We are delighted with the response of our partnership idea! We have received hundreds of proposals that are currently being taking into consideration, however, we would like to develop a small and controlled expansion. For the moment we have two Sugoi JPN sites open; the first one started trading at the beginning of August in South Wimbledon and it is working wonderfully, better than we expected. The second one opened at the end of August in Palmers Green and it is part of an Italian restaurant that closed to become a multi-concept dark kitchen – it is also working very well.

We are currently in negotiation to open more Sugoi JPN sites in East London and there are a couple of good potential opportunities in the Central area as well. Simultaneously we are launching a new concept of franchise partners inspired by Venezuelan food which has been adapted to meet the needs of the modern consumer during the pandemic. The concept is called Arepita Sliders and the first kitchen opened on September 17th in Tooting Broadway.

Our concept was designed to meet the growing demands of the vegan and gluten-free consumer market as well as online delivery. Our forward-thinking team are also on a mission to tackle one of the biggest challenges we are facing as a global community; food waste.

Both concepts offer options to suit a wide range of palates and dietary requirements.

RG- What are future plans for Sugoi JPN? Does your menu have specials or seasonal dishes or is it the same menu across venues through the year? 

FP- With regards to the future, our plan is to develop a controlled small expansion, with ten more kitchens opening in London. After that we can think about opening internationally, maybe in the Middle East, who knows! Things can change so quickly, as we have seen with Covid-19, so it’s about being flexible, and having the capability to adapt to drastic changes quickly and calmly.

Also, we would like to think that in the future our nori shells could be available in retail stores and supermarkets so our customers can make their own noritacos at home.

We are constantly adapting our menu on a seasonal basis to keep up with the latest trends and we do launch cool limited time only dishes, so yes, we have some special dishes once in a while.

RG- What kind of a meal can diners look forward to when they order a meal from your outlet? What’s the kind of vibe you wanted to create with your menu? 

FP- We offer a very unique menu. We are a very positive, original, humble brand, and that is our aim, not to be recognised as the best ones, or be in the top 10, we just want to keep it cool, relaxed, friendly, and connect with our customers.

RG- What have been your high points that keep you motivated to be in the food business? What would you say are the challenges involved in FnB start-ups? 

FP- Without a doubt, our motivation is the personal satisfaction we feel when we see our guests smile after trying our food and they leave happy.

With regards to the challenges, definitely the lack of passion in the industry, but also the level of initial investment. However, when we speak about street food, there are not as many high risks if we compare it with a brick and mortar restaurant in a local high street that comes with rent and cost pressures, as well as maybe needing refurbing, equipment, an army of staff, etc. You can start your business and develop your concept at a considerably lower risk. I would advise collecting and analysing feedback, improving the logistics, operations, etc before you go and invest half million in a restaurant and realise that you made a mistake – it will save you a lot of time, effort and money.

However, the revenue is proportional-you won’t make as much money at the beginning as you could in a restaurant, but it can be more profitable.

RG- What would you say is the reason of the continued success of your NoriTacos offerings? 

FP-Just three words – we are Sugoi!

RG-Any words of advice or inspiration to budding enthusiasts for setting up their own food brand?

FP- Without passion your game is going to be over sooner or later, that is the most important thing. You need to be human, we are dealing with people, not with numbers. This is hospitality and if you don’t have the enthusiasm and love for it, people will notice it.  Remember, happiness brings success, not money!

And with the pandemic situation we are currently in, do not see this as a crisis, but an opportunity! Be positive and open your mind and think outside the box. Everyone is starting from scratch, take advantage of it and make this new start work for you.

Sugoi is a Japanese superlative, is an exclamation linked to the positive admiration of talent or power, very used in Japan to describe something that is wonderful or incredible (Cool-Awesome). JPN is the acronym or the international abbreviation for the country of the rising sun. It could be interpreted as the incredible power of Japan, its cuisine, but with a happy Latin twist in the case of their food concept.

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