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Ritu Kumar weaving tradition into modern couture

Bollywood beauty Adi Rao Hydari walked the runway as showstopper for the designer dressed in an ivory chikankari lehenga worn with a short jacket…reports Tanya Banon

The grande dame of Indian fashion, Ritu Kumar, showcased her collection on Day two of FDCI Hyundai India Couture Week in association with Reliance Brands. The lexicon of the Ritu Kumar design aesthetic is so entrenched in Indian fashion, that it has become ubiquitous and synonymous with Indian Couture.

The OG of Indian design and the first revivalist of Indian craftsmanship and textiles, received a standing ovation for her collection which featured India’s rich textile tradition woven into modern silhouettes replete with intricate embroidery.

An amalgamation of vintage patina, burnished hues, metallic tones, a balance of motifs like paisleys, boots and flowers, were tastefully added to lehengas, dhoti pants teamed with jackets, saris, embroidery corsets under Maharaja coats stood testament to Kumar’s heritage and fashion repertoire. The country owes much of its design ethos to the revival work done by the first ‘barefoot doctor’ of Indian fashion.

Bollywood beauty Adi Rao Hydari walked the runway as showstopper for the designer dressed in an ivory chikankari lehenga worn with a short jacket.

The collection encapsulates a new feminine aesthetic through heritage textiles and nuanced classicism on dresses, jackets, capes, and anarkalis. The complexity of the glittering kasab and floral kashidakari are laid out with couture tailoring which makes the collection timeless and familiar while paving the way for what’s to come.

This season, Kumar’s legacy stays intact while the mood mirrors the style of today’s India.

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‘Chaap’: A harmonious blend of modernity and tradition

Fashion designer, Punit Balana, known for his craftsmanship and aesthetics, opened his first flagship store in Dhan Mill, Delhi. The store will showcase his latest collection, ‘छाप’ (Chaap), inspired by the rich heritage of Rajasthan and the unique wax printing technique called “मॉम का छापा” (Maum ka Chhaapa).

The name ‘छाप’ (Chaap) reflects the essence of the collection, paying homage to the age-old art form and its continuing relevance in the modern era. It represents Balana’s commitment to preserving and showcasing the beauty of Indian crafts while infusing a sense of courtliness, nostalgia, and old-world charm into the collection.

Balana expressed his excitement, “It was a dream come true to put my work on the map and showcase it. This collection features a harmonious blend of modernity and tradition, offering timeless pieces for everyone. I am thrilled to come to Delhi that too with ‘छाप’ (Chaap). The collection is a reflection of me, a signature with new-age shapes which is appealing to a wide range of fashion enthusiasts.”

The color palette chosen for the ‘छाप’ collection is soft and elegant. Golden hues, particularly the muted buttercup varieties, evoke understated glamour. Additionally, a delicate mint green shade reminiscent of traditional Indian blooms like mogra and rajanigandha lends a graceful touch to the collection. The classic silhouettes like the kalidar anarkali with an embroidered yoke, short kurtas paired with gheraras, three-piece sets with cowl skirts and handkerchief crop tops, and gauzy organza saris are showcased.

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