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Global battle reflects on fashion magazine covers

Baishali Chatterjee, ex-Managing Editor of Femina, India believes that magazines today are taking this “bold” step to cater to the changing perspective of the consumers…writes Puja Gupta.

The whole fashion world is stuck with Covid, but the efforts to boost it back are on the way by the people in the field. Glossy and glamorous — this is how we usually describe a fashion magazine cover that was until last year. Traditionally, a fashion magazine features a supermodel or a celebrity face — most often a Bollywood, Hollywood, or sports star dressed in sensational clothes, with hair and make-up on point.

But ever since the world was affected by the Covid-19 pandemic, things have changed. The global battle against the virus has been overwhelming mentally, physically, emotionally and has taken a toll on frontline workers in every nook and cranny. Popular magazines like Vogue, GQ, Cosmopolitan, Vanity Fair and Harper’s Bazaar among many, chose to the unconventional route — they became more inclusive with their covers and echoed the sentiments of the people.

Most recently, the cover of British Vogue’s July 2021 edition features Pakistani activist Malala Yousafzai. For the all red cover, the world’s youngest Nobel Prize laureate, Malala, is styled in a red shirt dress and headscarf by Stella McCartney.

“Fashion has long been a reflection of the times. Be in personal, political or economic,” says Nonita Kalra, former Editor of Harper’s Bazaar, India. Adding, “The pandemic has not just highlighted this, it has also brought into sharp focus the fact that all communication must be sensitive to the current environment.”

Here’s a look at all the covers we can’t get enough off, which are from tone deaf in these tough times:

In April 2020, Vogue Italia released a blank white cover that imD,,Nagined a life in a post pandemic world. Similarly, Vogue Portugal in the same month released a cover of two models kissing while wearing face masks to represent life in the times of social distancing.

In August 2020, all 26 editions of Vogue united to release the Hope Issue. Interpreted in their own way, it focused on the future of the world.

This month, Cosmopolitan India introduced ‘The Hope’ issue on Instagram, it features a series of six covers dedicated to real-life heroes who have shown tremendous courage and kindness during these difficult times.

Nandini Bhalla, Editor of Cosmopolitan, India tells: “Our decision to break the mould was driven by a need to amplify the real heroes around us: the ones who are making a difference, driving change, and inspiring millions of women and men. At its core, Cosmopolitan is a fashion, beauty, and lifestyle magazine for young women. But it has also always been a magazine that champions equality, courage, and kindness.”

She adds: “Last year has been devasating for many of us, and at this time, what we want to feel is a sense of hope. A light at the end of this dark tunnel. Cosmo India’s illustrated covers come with this message of hope… a reminder that there is goodness in the world, through these voices that help restore our faith in humanity.”

The six covers feature: India’s healthcare workers, Harteerath Singh from the Hemkunt Foundation who provided ‘oxygen langars’ and assistance to thousands of people, ASHA workers in rural India and good samaritans — from auto rickshaw drivers who converted their autos into makeshift ambulances, to police officers, teachers and animal-rights workers.

Baishali Chatterjee, ex-Managing Editor of Femina, India believes that magazines today are taking this “bold” step to cater to the changing perspective of the consumers.

She says: “When I was working in the magazine three years ago, Bollywood was still a big seller no matter what content we wanted to do. We had to cater to what our audiences wanted. But now, maybe the pandemic has shifted people’s perception, and made people realise that it’s the people who are actually making a difference. So people like Malala are finding themselves on the covers of magazines. And people are realising that their idols need to shift from just Bollywood and entertainment to the real people who are making a difference and saving people’s lives.”

Chatterjee adds: “I think that it is very brave for magazines to be taking the stand and showcasing this change. This speaks well of us as an audience. It’s like a vicious cycle of foresight, we create the kind of content that audiences want, and then audiences stream the kind of content that is given to them.”

Also, the whole digital revolution that print media has undergone gives the opportunity to play around and experiment. “You reach so many more people, your audience is far more diverse. One single outlet can have multiple covers in one month, unlike earlier when we had to close the magazine cover three three months in advance,” she says.

Asked if this is going to be the future, Kalra, who is currently serving as Editor-In-Chief, Tata CLiQ Luxury, answers: “Going forward, I think covers will have to be symbols of solidarity, messages of hope, and signals of optimism. Largely because the reader wants to be treated with sensitivity and intelligence.”

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B-town stars with ‘twinning trends’

Priyanka wore the figure-flaunting dress worth Rs 4 lakh for her photoshoot as the cover face of fashion glossy Vogue Australia…writes Puja Gupta.

To pick the best costume or attire is a difficult task, not for the common people but for the celebs too. Celebs put in a lot of effort to finalise their look and deciding upon their OTT outfits. But there have been several instances when celebrities were spotted wearing the same outfit. The most recent one: Priyanka Chopra Jonas and Anne Hathway wore the same black bodycon by designer Alexandre Vauthier black for different photoshoots.

Priyanka wore the figure-flaunting dress worth Rs 4 lakh for her photoshoot as the cover face of fashion glossy Vogue Australia. The silk embellished-trim maxi silk dress had gem embellishment, slim cut, square neck, and spaghetti straps and is from the French label’s SS21 collection. On the other hand, Anne wore the dress for her shoot for CR Fashion Book China.

PeeCee’s look was also compared to one of Deepika Padukone’s old pictures in which she was wearing a black, floor-length Tom Ford gown. The comparison did not go well with Priyanka’s mother Madhu Chopra and lashed out at a media outlet who asked its followers on social media for which actress pulled off the black gown better. Madhu reacted to the tweet by writing, “Only a blind will think they are wearing same outfit. Besides Pri always carries Haute couture better.”

Actresses Alia Bhatt and Shraddha Kapoor were clicked by the paparazzi wearing the same Zimmerman dress. Shraddha styled the white and pink floral mini with plunging neckline and bell sleeves with a pair of off-white strappy heels and kept her makeup neutral and left her brunette mane down in soft waves.

Alia chose to do a bohemian braided hairdo that added extra oomph to her look. She then opted for glowy makeup while sticking to strappy heels and accessorised it with a cross-body sling.

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‘Embrace’: Collection for WFH- Workleisure

The collection includes already built ensembles that require little to no styling, lightweight and breathable fabrics, seamless finish combined with comfy-style garments…writes Puja Gupta.

Work from home has become a new lifestyle since we are going through the pandemic era. During the pandemic, people’s relationship with clothes has shifted significantly, as people prioritize comfort and convenience over appearance. Furthermore, the lockdown has left most of us with little or no desire to prepare a new look daily. For working women, it has actually become an even greater burden and source of anxiety.

Amid the pandemic, Qua launched ‘Embrace’, a new collection designed for WFH- Workleisure! The collection has become a huge success given that it adapted perfectly to the growing need for more comfortable yet presentable clothing for Zoom meetings.

Rupanshi, founder of Qua says, “Dressing up can motivate you and increase your productivity as well. The flared and relaxed fits of the shirts, co-ords, and dresses make dressing up easier, without compromising on comfort. On days when you are feeling uninspired, you can wear the co-ord or dress as it is and still look dressed up. These outfits can be elevated further by layering them with shirts and blazers, on days when you want to feel like a true professional.”

The collection includes already built ensembles that require little to no styling, lightweight and breathable fabrics, seamless finish combined with comfy-style garments. The key garments of the collection namely smart co-ords, casual shirts, and chic dresses are made of premium fabrics like moss crepe, viscose, and cotton, which provide optimum breathability and homely comfort. These practical wardrobe must-haves have been a great help to working women in order to maintain a work-life balance, as the garments are comfortable to wear, chic, and a great addition to the 9-5 and beyond wardrobe.

There have been studies that show how dressing up for work can improve performance. The brand also conducted a poll, where 100 women participated, which revealed that 84 percent of women felt unproductive while working from home and 85 percent of women agreed that dressing up for work increased their productivity.

Despite the shift in the workplace due to the pandemic, dressing up for work still holds much value as it gives people a sense of professionalism. By dressing up appropriately even for zoom meetings, you can adequately prepare yourself for the day ahead, otherwise, you might get caught in the ‘working from bed’ vortex.

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Attire for ‘Love Your Every Self’

The looks make for the perfect travel or stay-at-home companions. One can sport an Airport look, a seamless work from home look that can easily be translated into an outfit for running errands or catching that last-minute workout…writes N. Lothungbeni Humtsoe.

Comfort is the most releavant thing about a costume. Multi-brand e-commerce fashion platform Nykaa Fashion, expands its offering with the launch of Nykd All Day, a new indulgent sub-brand featuring athleisure, leisure, and active wear. Designed with a focus on comfort and inclusivity, it offers minimal yet versatile pieces which promise to seamlessly transition from at-home wear to stepping-out attire as per the dictates of the hybrid work model of today.

Derived from the name Nykaa and inspired by its values of being real, relatable, authentic, and inclusive, the Nykd by Nykaa (pronounced nay-ked) philosophy centres around giving customers the ultimate sense of comfort with a blend of fashion, function, and technology. The brand wants to positively reinforce its DNA of realness and the importance of self-love at the core of its messaging through the tagline, ‘Love Your Every Self’.

The attire is designed keeping in mind the real Indian women’s body types and includes special touches like high waist compression leggings, everyday tights with pockets, hip covering silhouettes, and options of layering tanks with shrugs. The looks make for the perfect travel or stay-at-home companions. One can sport an Airport look, a seamless work from home look that can easily be translated into an outfit for running errands or catching that last-minute workout.

Adwaita Nayar, CEO, Nykaa Fashion and Founding Team Member, Nykaa, says, “We are excited to expand Nykd by Nykaa to include athleisure, leisure & activewear after successfully launching lingerie and sleepwear. Over the past one year, as we navigate new ways of working, living, and managing our hectic schedules, athleisure & activewear have now become wardrobe staples that we choose to make a style statement in! We combine high-quality athletic staples with versatile leisurewear to offer the utmost comfort whilst maintaining a modern appeal and ensuring a wide selection so that we have something for almost everyone. We hope that it will deliver on both; functional and comfortable products steeped in the latest innovations in fabric and fit.”

Nykd All Day will be available online and in-store at Ambience Mall, New Delhi.

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‘Mandana’ dominates shades of nature

The Indian market has evolved over time when it comes to designer menswear. Men have also been more conscious about the clothes they wear, as their wardrobe is an extension of their personality. Punit Balana speaks with Puja Gupta.

Nature is always associated with genuine fashion. Fashion designer Punit Balana believes ”fashion enthusiasts will always find a way to reach their favourite designers given any scenario”. He is still ”optimistic” the pandemic has hit the industry hard, and believes there is a ”silver lining to every situation”.

Meanwhile, the designer, who launched his label in 2015 with a focus on designing for womenswear, has forayed into menswear with a limited-edition collection called ‘Mandana’. Interview:

Why did you decide to foray into designing menswear?

Ever since I launched the label Punit Balana in 2015, I have been focusing on designing for women. My designs are contemporary and easy to wear — comfort is an important brand attribute. Since the past many years I have been receiving requests within my friends circle to design for men. As time passed by, the number of requests increased, and I decided it was high time I create pieces for men too.

The time I had last year, gave me the opportunity to research and design some interesting concepts. This led to ‘Mandana’, given the subtle colours and the sustainable fabrics, I thought of creating a mix of classic and contemporary kurta sets for men. Men usually like to keep their Indian wear light and comfortable, hence I thought this was a good opportunity to introduce these pieces. I have received an overwhelming response and hope to widen the range and offer my male clientele more options

Tell us more about the collection.

Inspired by one of the oldest forms of art in India — ‘Mandana’, this collection celebrates traditional prints with the revival of hand-block motifs. Shades of nature dominate this collection — ranging from greens to ivories to pinks, personifying joy, elation and bliss. Rooted in the principles of comfort, ‘Mandana’ is an edit of exclusive kurtas, pyjamas and churidars made from soft and breathable fabrics like cotton silk which make for a perfect pick this summer. The ensemble can be complete by teaming it with beautiful printed organza dupattas with gold hand-dori borders, giving it an elegant finesse; it’s for occasions ranging from pujas at home, to haldi functions, to weddings.

Who do you see wearing it?

Each and every ‘Punit Balana’ ensemble is designed to move, dance and celebrate in. The brand’s aesthetic is a return to the fundamentals of materials, prints, motifs and embroideries, and yet a progression of form and silhouette.

With a focus on contrasting tones and colours, and a playful use of prints, patterns and shapes, the brand creates a vibrant design language that seems to be ever-evolving, yet remains rooted in principles of comfort and wear-ability. A sensibility of fluidity and ease sets the brand apart.

Though this is a limited collection, we have ensured that the designs are versatile and cater to all age groups. A short kurta paired with cowl pants or our block-printed kurtas with resham work detailing paired with pants would attract a younger audience. At the same time, we also have classic kurtas with churidars which would be a preferred choice among patrons above 45 years.

How do you see the Indian market of designer menswear today?

The Indian market has evolved over time when it comes to designer menswear. Men have also been more conscious about the clothes they wear, as their wardrobe is an extension of their personality. Having said that, with the increasing spending power among young men, they are likely to invest in designer wear. There is a constant demand for new and interesting designs among customers which keeps the market on their toes. I see designer menswear as a booming market in India.

What are the current top trends in menswear?

I think one trend that is here to stay is comfortable athleisure wear — they’re comfortable, effortless and cool. Pairing a t-shirt on joggers with a casual jacket or a shirt with cotton trousers and sneakers, these easy looks are taking over men’s fashion.

How has the pandemic influenced your design philosophy?

All my collections are inspired by the culture and heritage of Rajasthan designed in ethnic and contemporary silhouettes for the modern woman/man. Given the time we had in hand during the pandemic, I used it to go back to my design philosophies and present new collections with the existing resources we had. For e.g. The Mandana collection was created using only existing hand-blocks we had with us since the brand was founded in 2010. The time also gave us an opportunity to research and develop new prints and silhouettes, and also for me to foray into creating pieces for my male customers.

How do you see the future of Indian fashion industry, considering the impact of the pandemic on it?

Since fashion belongs to the non-essential sector, it has definitely taken a huge hit during the pandemic. It has been difficult for the industry to bounce back, but we have somehow managed to stand up on our feet yet again and test the waters. I am a very optimistic person and believe there’s a silver lining to every situation. We did see a rise in our online sales during the pandemic and have also received queries from to-be brides/grooms and their families.

For me, fashion enthusiasts will always find a way to reach their favourite designers given any scenario.

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Beena Kannan’s experiment in luxury silk

The designer held a fashion show in Kochi, Kerala, to launch her new label ‘Beena Kannan’. Top models sashayed on the ramp, wearing the collection that comprises sarees, lehengas, crop and long jackets, kaftans, dresses, etc…writes Puja Gupta.

Beena Kannan is a notable name in the fashion industry for several years. Having spent over forty years in the industry designing sarees for her Kerala-based brand Seematti, designer Beena Kannan is all set to launch India’s first luxury silk inspired haute couture label.

With this move, Kannan aims to change the notion that Kanjeevaram silk is only for sarees. Her new namesake brand, includes Indian, Indo-western and western outfits made either of silk or with a touch of it.

The designer held a fashion show in Kochi, Kerala, to launch her new label ‘Beena Kannan’. Top models sashayed on the ramp, wearing the collection that comprises sarees, lehengas, crop and long jackets, kaftans, dresses, etc.

Kannan has used different weaving techniques from across the country to do the label’s first lineup, based on three mood boards to cater the likings of Gen Z and millennials, among others.

Kannan has combined the Byzantine era with Indian Geometric art; the Art Deco period with Jamiwar and Ottoman art with Mughal styles. She has adopted famous paintings of Vincent van Gogh and S.H. Raza on to her sarees.

However, it is very difficult to create such art on weaving, she says. “Even machines cannot take the 40,000 hooks and 60,000 hooks that we handle.”

Additionally, getting modern designs weaved by artisans who otherwise work on traditional weaves and techniques is also not very easy, she says.

“The artisans were never ready to do innovative things, because it’s a very time consuming, money consuming and is a hard process. It’s very difficult for them to get into innovation, get into new designs because Kanjeevaram has certain limitations. It’s considered very religious and very much attached to the Hindu wedding. So they thought believe the scope of this weaving is very limited,” she tells.

“When I talked to them, they asked me who’s going to buy it. If it’s a simple saree, it can be made in five days, and my designs sometimes take three months to be ready. But we pay them accordingly. Some of our saris even cost more than our selling price. But we do it because it needs to be done. That’s how we think, that’s where we are positioning ourselves,” asserts Kannan, who made into Guinness Book of Records and Limca Book of Records in 2007 for making the longest-ever silk saree.

Unlike Seematti, which is a 120-year-old retail brand, every bit of the outfits in the new label is custom-made, she clarifies. “There are clothes which will be fitting in all occasions in your life.”

Label Beena Kannan will see garments made with various silk weaving techniques and technologies in India which will be inspired by her travel across the globe.

She says: “The entire silk industry was revolving around modular designs, say X+Y+Z or Y+X+Z. But we are reinventing the procedure of the weaving. Today, customers need light weighted outfits, a particular zari etc. So we do a lot of experiments. I have done weaving in organza, linen and raw silk to make sarees. I have combined weaving in silk, printing in silk and embroidery in silk for occasion wear and accessories also.”

“Everything we want is not available in the market and we are adjusting and celebrating with what is out there But I don’t want the Kanjeevaram deteriorate. Already the weaver’s community is deteriorating, and the enthusiasm which the seniors have, maybe the juniors won’t have, maybe they are looking out for collared jobs. But there are certain people who can be with me. So I train them to work for us.”

Kannan, will launch the brand with a 17,500 sqft store in Kerala, and plans to expand it across the world in the next three years. This year, they plan to open five stores in Delhi, Bombay, Hyderabad, Bangalore, Chennai, plus two flagships stores. There are plans to hold trunk shows across cities, with altered designs that suit the taste of each place.

The brand is open for collaborations and looking to give franchisees across the country and internationally.

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Kashmir Fashion Breaks the Jinx

The maiden fashion show in Kashmir sets the ball rolling… A special report Khadeeja Qayyum

Kashmir fashion broke the jinx. Everything is possible in Kashmir now. The maiden fashion show, organised by the All Jammu and Kashmir Youth Society (AJKYS), at Tagore Hall in Srinagar opened a new chapter in the history of Kashmir. Who would have thought few years ago that this too is possible in Kashmir! 10 designers and 22 models of Kashmir participated with top designer Rajdeep Ranawat. Prominent cultural activist Sajid Yousuf Shah inaugurated the event.

The AJYKS, an NGO, has broken the shackles and it can pave the way for many more such shows being held in Kashmir in the near future. The ball has started to roll. For young boys and girls in Kashmir modeling has always been a difficult option. All aspiring models cannot afford to visit Mumbai and other metropolitan cities to chase their dreams.
After the abrogation of Article 370—which provided special status to Jammu and Kashmir—many things have changed in the newly carved out union territory. New Delhi has changed its priorities by shifting its focus from a handful of Kashmir based leaders to a common man. Empowering youth and providing them with more opportunities have been the thrust areas.
The change is visible but a few elements are finding it hard to come at terms with the changing trends in the Valley. Young girls coming forward to participate in the fashion show has proven it beyond doubt that Kashmir’s generation-next is keen to tread on the path of peace, prosperity and development.


One fails to understand how come organizing a fashion show is an immoral act? Such shows are held across the world, including Pakistan and the Gulf countries, if these shows are moral in Muslim countries then how come a show held in Srinagar is immoral?
Kashmiri youth are within their rights to live their lives in a way they want and no one can dictate terms to them. The females who want to wear burqas can go ahead with it. No one will ask them why they are in a veil? But no one has given them a right to prevent others from taking part in the events that can prove to be stepping stones in their careers.

Protest March

The fashion show triggered a row in the Valley as around 30 to 40 females took out a silent protest march against the event along the Boulevard Road on the banks of Dal Lake in Srinagar. The protesters claimed that they were not affiliated with any organisation and hit the streets voluntarily. However, media reports said that the cleric from Central Kashmir’s Budgam district had organized the march.
A KAS officer while reacting to the march wrote: “Strongly condemn such acts. Everyone has a right to live his life the way he likes.”
Prominent journalist Aditya Raj Kaul tweeted: “And the radical Islamist are up in arms against the Fashion Show with ‘My Burqa, My Pride’ posters to push back Kashmir. Thirty Burqa clad women, who don’t want art, cinema, theatre, fashion, cafes or progress. Just want violence and hatred. Hope Kashmir gets a cinema hall soon.”
 


Fatwa on rock band
 In 2012 three teenage girls, Nooma Nazir, 16, Ameena Khalid, 16 and Farah Deeba 15, had formed Pragaash—a Sufi-rock girl band. But the then proclaimed Grand Mufti of Kashmir, late Mufti Bashiruddin, who used to claim to be a sole custodian of the Supreme Court of Islamic Shariat’ in the Valley, had issued a fatwa (religious edict) advising the girls and their families to “stay within the limits of modesty as prescribed for them.”
The band was silenced before it could even properly appear on the scene.
The three teenage students of Srinagar’s Presentation Convent, had mesmerized the audiences at their first stage performance on December 24, 2012. The event was organized by a Srinagar based cultural group “Valley Youth Expression” with funds from the Central Reserve Police Force. But after their performance these girls were trolled and threatened on social media, which led to these budding artists calling it a day.
Since 2012 lot of water has flown in Jehlum. The henchmen of separatists and radical elements have lost their addresses. In “Naya Kashmir” many young artistes, including girls, have proven their mettle in the recent past. These artistes are participating in stage shows, performing during wedding functions and other cultural events. The videos of their performances have gone viral on social media. These budding artists are spreading love and music. They seem least interested in preaching hatred and violence.

Dukhtaran Terror Over
Prior to August 5, 2019—when the Centre announced its decision to abrogate Article 370 and bifurcated erstwhile J&K State into two union territories— radical women organization headed by Asiya Andrabi, who along with her aides is lodged at Tihar Jail in New Delhi at present—was infamous for raiding parks, restaurants and throwing acid on women for not observing purdah. But as on date there are no such organizations active in the Valley. The terror of the women group has ended. It has allowed the females who want to move on with their lives to come forward and showcase their talent. As on date the schools in the Valley hold special music classes for the students and encourage them to participate in the events which would turn them into confident human beings, who won’t succumb to any threats or fear.  
New Beginning 
The fashion show organized by the AJKYS in Srinagar triggered a debate but the voices in favour of the event indicate that Kashmir has changed in the past one and half years and no one can stop Kashmiri youth from competing with their counterparts across the country. The fashion show at Tagore Hall is a beginning there is lot more in offing for the youth, who during the past three decades were turned into cannon fodder by extremists to keep the pot boiling in the Valley. Kashmir is on the move and youth are leading from the front.      

   

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Traditional look with simple ideas

While choosing the bottoms, select slightly slim and sleek bottoms such as churidars or leggings to complete the look…writes Puja Gupta.

Traditional wears in new styles can simply named as fashion. Fashion trends are constantly evolving and style enthusiasts are hooked to the latest collections and options that are available on online and offline clothing stores. These traditional wears can swing from being maximalist to minimalist, going well with all body and skin types. However, the idea is to select the Kurti that can be easy to style and compliment the wearer without being overpowering.

Below are some quick tips and guides by Anuj Mundra, Chairman and MD, Jaipurkurti.com based on each body type to nail the traditional look with manipulation of designs and colours.

Apple Shaped Body

If your upper body is wide compared to the lower body with rounded shoulders, average to big bust or fullness around the middle, it’s best to go for darker shades with cotton and silk fabrics as they do not cling to the body. Necklines that are V-shaped or embellished will tend to draw attention to the much-endowed bust. Flared and cuffed sleeves will help in highlighting the best assets while accentuating your best features.

Banana Shaped Body

Banana-shaped body or the rectangular body type, is an evenly proportionate shape, which means that the shoulders, hips, and waist are evenly proportioned. The size can vary from small to medium bust but the waist is not defined. The features for the right Kurti that will compliment this body type include a broad and deep neckline with a clinched waist. One can opt for panel detailing along with pleats and a front placket. While choosing the bottoms, select slightly slim and sleek bottoms such as churidars or leggings to complete the look.

Pear Shaped Body

The pear-shaped body types are one with full hips and thighs along with defined waist and narrow shoulders. Wearing lowers which are dark in color, teaming up with lighter Kurtis will draw attention to the torso. Necklines that have collar patterns, boat, or square cuts will enhance the look. For sleeves, one can go for a bishop and roughed arms. Straight-long Kurtis will add length to your body.

Hourglass Shaped Body

This body type includes a defined waist and bust along with the bottom and hips. With this body type, you can carry off the Kurtis of all types. Pair them with palazzos and or straight-line pants and you will get a stunning look. Do not go for ill-fitted Kurtis. A flared Kurti can be the best pick as it will give a fuller look. Additionally, a streamlined cut would prove to be perfect for this body type.

Inverted Triangle Shaped Body

This body type calls for a straight and squared shoulder line along with a smaller bottom. Choosing flared Kurtis that fit well on the bust and slightly low necklines that will take away the attention from broad shoulders. Sleeves in the raglan style create an illusion of an evenly distributed look throughout the body and would be perfect for this body type. Make sure that you go for longer Kurtis and layer them with Patiala or skirt. One can avoid anything with strong shoulder detailing or high necklines to shift to an appealing style.

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Modernizing ‘ Kanjivaram’

When contemporizing a craft there is always a fine line between expanding a craft’s vocabulary and disrespecting a tradition…writes Sujata.

Tamil Nadu’s famed kanjivaram textile technique dates back to the time of the Chola period. Chola kings are said to have invited Padmasaliya weavers from neighbouring kingdoms to the temple town of Kanchipuram to weave silk.

Traditionally a Kanjivaram sari is made of Native Indian Mulberry silk, they were occasion saris, the body of the drape would be plain, striped or patterned. Real zari would add a feel of decadence to its palau and borders–what made this vibrant sari famous was its colour play. Over the years the kanjivaram has adapted to keep its relevance–for example since the kanjivaram predates the advent of the jacquard loom by a few centuries, the brocade style kanjivarams that are today considered bridal beauties could actually be called a design intervention of the 20th century.

As K.H. Radharaman, creative director of Advaya, a label that prides itself on its craft savoir faire, says,”Textiles are a document of living culture.” Advaya is the label of Bangalore based design house, House of Angadi, and Radharaman’s family have been in the textile industry for 600 years. With this lineage he sees himself as a custodian of the craft. “I am a traditionalist at heart, and I revere tradition. My family has been involved in the creation of the very pieces that are revered as classics in the genres that I have worked in. I have personally revived and recreated many old designs and have regenerated many old techniques.” Yet he is also the man behind the linen kanjivaram. “I would also argue that innovation is necessary to contemporize craft,” he adds.

It was Advaya that was behind Deepika Padukone’s custom made wedding sari in 2018. While this was the first time most fashion folk heard of Radharaman’s work, those in textiles have been aware of his weaves for well over a decade. It was 11 years ago that he created the first linen kanjivaram. Says Radharaman,”I had worked on linen for the international market as far back as 2006 and I realised that the matte appearance of linen would blend in beautifully and seamlessly with the subtle gold hue of the Kanjivaram zari.”

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It took 15 months of work for this intervention to come alive and since then many sari designers have turned to linen. Available by order and in limited editions linen kanjivarams are now seen as collector’s items by many sari connoisseurs. However there are some conservative textile historians who look at experimentations with disdain.

This has not stopped the label’s founder to stay on path of intervention, being a trained engineer and not a design graduate is perhaps why he is not bound by any rules. Radharaman has since worked on several other “updates” including the khadi and tussar kanjivarams. These saris speak of traditions from different parts of India and different times, the country’s history can be woven together.

When contemporizing a craft there is always a fine line between expanding a craft’s vocabulary and disrespecting a tradition. “My work as a textile designer is diverse and straddles a wide array of techniques, tools, materials, and craft clusters. I believe all of this has helped me contemporize the design language of traditional Indian crafts in a significant way — making it relevant to the present and future generations.” At his retail store, Angadi, traditional and innovative weaves by Advaya sit next to each other–an untrained eye may not be able to tell which saris are interventions, since the architecture of the saris remain loyal to traditions.

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By working with lighter forms of cloth, and not sticking to the prescribed silks, Radharaman has added a very modern and user-friendly appeal feel to the kanjivaram’s repertoire. Advaya is currently working on a new line of bridal saris that alter the visual design vocabulary and motifs of a Kanjivaram sari. He says,”Now with the help of technological breakthroughs and immense investments at the back end we have managed to create large scale repeats and render beautiful, almost story-like motifs that derive inspiration from diverse subjects.”

For Radharaman innovations like this keep the sari relevant and exciting to future generations. But he notes a sari must never be trend driven–being timeless and heirloom worth are properties of the sari that are non-negotiable. Which would explain why this textile innovator views adding a sartorial element would be blasphemy. “The sari is a finished product and is not yardage that needs to be cut and stitched. Suggesting that a finished product needs to be repurposed or enhanced is akin to saying that a work of art, a true masterpiece needs an additional stroke of paint.”

The writer Sujata Assomull is a columnist. Assomull is the author “100 Iconic Bollywood Costumes” and was the Founding Editor In Chief of Harper’s Bazaar, India.

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‘Pandemic changed our view on craft’

The collaboration is a way to forget the past and ring in a brighter future and new beginnings. After a truly testing year, we joined hands with Lakme Salon, FDCI & LFW are striving to spread joy and laughter, in the most trendy, stylish way possible…Pankaj and Nidhi speak with Puja Gupta.

Talking about fashion itself is fashionable trend in the modern world of craft and art. Fashion designer duo Pankaj and Nidhi said the pandemic has changed their perspective towards their craft.

“We’ve realised how prudent and imperative it is to design sharp and focused collections – reduce waste by designing less and ensuring each sample and each stitch and each cut of cloth counts,” they told.

Considering these factors, the duo launched their latest collection at the ongoing phygitical FDCI x Lakme Fashion Week. IANSlife spoke to them to know their views on how the fashion industry will shape in a post pandemic era and the major collaborations that the industry has seen this year. Excerpts:

Q. How do you see the fashion industry shaping up in a post pandemic era?

Pankaj & Nidhi: The pandemic has definitely changed our perspective on our craft. We’ve realised how prudent and imperative it is to design sharp and focused collections – reduce waste by designing less and ensuring each sample and each stitch and each cut of cloth counts. Our planet and nature need nurturing and so do our creative souls and there won’t be peace if one comes at the cost of the other. We need clothing that remains wearable and feels good. The fabric is our immediate environment. Humankind has its environment in nature but the body’s immediate environment is the clothing that we wear. These are cool and comfortably stylish.

Q. How do you see the collaboration between FDCI and LFW?

Pankaj & Nidhi: A much-needed cohesive platform – unified with the energy of two powerhouses of Indian fashion, sending a message of solidarity, unity and cooperation between all stakeholders, a great message for everyone out there watching and following Indian fashion. The collaboration is a way to forget the past and ring in a brighter future and new beginnings. After a truly testing year, we joined hands with Lakme Salon, FDCI & LFW are striving to spread joy and laughter, in the most trendy, stylish way possible

Q. The year already has seen many big collaborations in the fashion industry. How do you see this move?

Pankaj & Nidhi: It was high time the fashion industry put a single consolidated front. Through these collaborations and the phygital editions they can enable designers to expand their consumer outreach.

Q. Tell us more about your latest collection.

Pankaj & Nidhi: The collection is inspired by a kaleidoscope and the myriad of unique patterns and visuals it offers. We’ve always loved geometrics. This time we were really fascinated with how patterns keep changing when you view them through a kaleidoscope. It’s a technicolour explosion and we wanted to do something vibrant, positive, and optimistic. This collection ‘Kaleido’ is geometrically sharp & comes in a burst of rainbow hues of brilliant reds, luscious oranges, unabashed pinks, ultra-violet blues and electric greens. The silhouettes are holiday ready — flowing maxi and mini dresses to kick back and let loose and tailored co-ord sets with sporty elements, to acknowledge our pursuits towards wellness and fitness. The fabrics are sheer, translucent, breathable and easy to wear.

A kaleidoscope generates changing symmetrical patterns from small pieces of coloured glass, symbolising constant evolution. Creatively, too, we are always evolving, and this is the essence of our collection.

Q. What kind of trends do you see in the season?

Pankaj & Nidhi: We love the colours – they are brightly saturated and kaleidoscopic. The collection comprises comfortable jumpsuits and floor and midi length skirts and flowing maxi dresses along with bomber jackets in cropped length, and puff sleeve blouses in electric colours. We need a dose of cheer and this collection brings us a bit of joy and hope it does the same for everyone.

The collection is spontaneously engineered to evoke optimism. With hand-cut appliques, a riot of rainbow colours, a plethora of breathable fabrics, and an array of wearable silhouettes, we want to help usher in a new beam of light into our lives and rejuvenate our souls. We’re excited to be collaborating with Lakme Salon, which shares our core values and has created a collection of fluid, free-spirited hair looks that beautifully offset our pieces.

Q. Slow fashion is the talk of the hour, your views?

Pankaj & Nidhi: Slow fashion is the need of the hour. Sustainability is an idea that we all need to embrace from the stage to of conception to execution. Even small individual contributions make a difference – and we are doing it by reducing waste, using recycled materials, producing sensibly and making each item worthy of being bought with some conscience.

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